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February 2022

Changing times in the vineyards

  • Grapevines have not escaped the impact of climate disruption, and winemakers like Olivier Sumeire are adjusting to change.
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Olivier Sumeire, une passion, la vigne.

“The difficulty is that we absolutely don’t want to change our identity. Our wines have a signature; there’s no question of changing their particular minerality, liveliness and freshness. The government decree of December 2021 allows us to reintroduce heirloom grape varieties, whether under assessment or already validated like Rousseli and Caladoc. Their drought resistance would be an asset, without weakening our wines’ distinctive characteristics.”
Winegrowers are adapting, tackling the challenges of climate change, the resulting increase in alcohol content and the ecological transition.
“Higher alcohol content does not matter much if you maintain the balance of the wine. A 13% rosé can still be lively. It depends on the winegrower’s skill.”
High temperatures and drought are now a fact of life, and the AOP syndicate is fighting for the possibility of waiving of the rules to allow irrigation in vineyards. This is crucial if there is no rain for four or even five months.
“When I was a child,” says Olivier Sumeire, “the grape harvest began in late September. These days, that’s when it ends. At this stage we can only note what’s happening and keep doing our job to the best of our ability, always striving for excellence.”

By Valérie Rouger

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