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TRENDS

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February 2021

Life’s little tourbillons

  • Timewear
  • A dizzying challenge for impassioned watchmakers. The holy grail of seasoned collectors. In 2020, the traditional tourbillon watch is still the stuff of dreams.

Life’s little tourbillons

A dizzying challenge for impassioned watchmakers. The holy grail of seasoned collectors. In 2020, the traditional tourbillon watch is still the stuff of dreams.

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Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Volant Heure Sautante Minute Rétrograde.
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Vacheron Constantin Tourbillon Traditionnelle Joaillerie.
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Audemars Piguet. Tourbillon Volant Chronographe Automatique.
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Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin.

Rare because of its complexity, the tourbillon is a small rotating cage that improves the precision of mechanical watches. How does it work? By counterbalancing the Earth's gravitational effects that cause watches to gain or lose time. A watchmaking complication prized by collectors. Invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, the tourbillon remains somewhat of an accomplishment for young watchmakers proving their worth and becomes a formidable creative backdrop for the seasoned craftsman. Proof of manufacturing excellence, it offers a captivating spectacle when it is on the dial side. But how does the small cage distinguish itself in 2020? Audemars Piguet is enriching its Code 11.59 collection with a Self-winding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph (only 50 pieces made), daring for the first time to combine the classic prestige of the tourbillon with a sporty contemporary chronograph design with flyback functionality. Same sporty chic look for the Richard Mille RM 17-01 Tourbillon, available in a variety of materials including a red gold full set diamonds version. At Piaget, the small cage sits in majesty on the dial of limited edition Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue watches.

Inspiring playground

"Create the most outrageous, cinematic triple-axis tourbillon of all time." The MB&F team's request when they called upon the services of renowned watchmaker Eric Coudray. The man who co-designed the spectacular Legacy Machine Thunderdome with Kari Voutilainen, another legendary watchmaker. A challenge met with flying colours! Equally spectacular is Roger Dubuis' aptly named Excalibur Diabolus In Machina. Irresistible with its iconic 45mm case housing a flying tourbillon coupled with a minute repeater. More classic but no less chic, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon also combines the two majestic complications. While Blancpain opts for pure classic aesthetics with the Villeret Tourbillon Volant Heure Sautante Minute Rétrograde, Glashütte pays homage to the creator of the flying tourbillon with the limited edition Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920. Meanwhile, Chopard unveils its first calibre equipped with a flying tourbillon in the elegant LU.C. Flying T Twin timepiece in an ultra-thin certified Fairmined ethical rose gold case.
Fascinating, the structure of the tourbillon is also an inspirational playground when it comes to perfecting a ladies' watch. Chanel has proved this in the past, adorning it with a camellia, while Chopard incorporated it into a Happy Sport jewellery watch. Today, Jaquet Droz gives it a starry decor with the Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine. Vacheron Constantin, for its part, enriches its Traditionnelle collection with its first self-winding watch with tourbillon for women. Two models to choose from, one in pink gold set with diamonds, the other, more jewelled, in white gold with a diamond pavé dial.

Par Julie de los Rios

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Richard Mille RM 17-01 Tourbillon.
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Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue.
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Breguet Montre Classique Grande Complication avec double tourbillon tournant.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon.
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Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine.
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Roger Dubuis. Excalibur Diabolus In Machina.

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