HORLOGERIE: LE CRU 2015

 
 intimite mouvement
 

Skeleton

  • Movements with nothing to hide

05.2015

The prerogative of great horologists, skele­t­onising is a highly skilled exercise. Stripped down and architectural, such watches reveal the intricacies of their fascinating mechanisms.

 

Eliminating the dial, cutting away bridges and plate, paring the mechanism down to a minimum... that's the skeletonising challenge. A skill that Roger Dubuis showcased on its SIHH stand by inviting visitors to discover its Astral Skeleton Experience, for which artistic director AlvaroMaggini had conceived a spectacular décor that made you feel you were actually inside a skeletonised Excalibur movement. Among its new Technical Skeletons the manufacture presented a world first: the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon flaunting a daring rubber bezel set with diamonds! Cartier offers us two open-work versions of a cult model. The Rotonde Grande Complication Skeleton 9406 MC has what it takes to attract the collectors; this masterpiece bearing the Geneva Seal combines a flying tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater in an extra-flat movement. The even more pared Rotonde Astrotourbillon Skeleton 9461 MC Calibre displays an astrotourbillon with a one-minute-rotation carriage. At Parmigiani, the Tonda 1950 Skeleton comes in men's and women's versions, both featuring a transparent dial so you lose none of the spectacle of its train of wheels. And Guy Ellia's highly original Tourbillon Magistère II proves you can cultivate mystery even when stripping down. Its movement, developed by watchmaker Christophe Claret for a rectangular case, comprises a one-minute tourbillon.