Something to take home


Chez Moi, Paris
Jean-Baptiste invites us into his "apartment-gallery-boutique" to nose around at will. Almost everything here is on sale: objects by young designers, books, photos, furniture, lighting, plants ... everything except the clothes, for the moment anyway.
25 rue Hérold, 1er Tél. 06 61 26 23 31


Sergeant Paper
The walls are hung with limited edition screen prints, art prints and illustrations, all for sale. In the middle there are screen printed notebooks, tote bags and T-shirts to whet our appetites before we explore the current exhibition or the studio.
38 rue Quincampoix, 4e Tél. 01 42 77 12 46


This shop is strictly for discerning shoe fiends, for whom it stocks a fine selection of luxury footwear by Maison Martin Margiela, Lanvin, Comme des Garçons, Marc Jacobs etc.
58 rue Montmartre, 2e Tél. 01 40 26 61 01


Where to eat


Le Beef Club
Another steakhouse, but not any old steakhouse! This very British affair serves grass-fed beef straight from Yorkshire, paired with chips cooked in duck fat or button mushrooms with snail butter. The basement houses Le Ballroom, a semi-secret cocktail bar.
58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1er Tél. 09 54 37 13 65


Meatballs (chicken, beef or lamb), fishballs and veggie balls, teamed with a vast range of sauces! And who better to raise the humble meatball to sublime heights than a chef who's worked at the Ritz, such as Kevin Austruy, co-owner of the joint.
179 rue Saint-Denis, 2e Tél. 01 42 21 46 44


La Gaufrerie
We all love sweet waffles but savoury ones are less familiar. Jonathan, mine host at the Gaufrerie, is wagering that we'll love them too, in dishes based on salmon, meat or chicken. Top marks for his brunch, with three kinds of updated waffle. Hearty appetite essential!
5 rue Marie Stuart, 2e Tél. 01 42 33 05 89


Le Fumoir
You wouldn't know it from the name but this is a Parisian bar/brasserie that turns into a library in the afternoon. A short scoot from the Louvre, it serves traditional fare such as pan-fried cod and smoked duck breast, but always with an original slant.
6 rue de l’Amiral Coligny, 1er Tél. 01 42 92 00 24


Where to go for drinks


Demory + Progrès & Splendeur
Rue Quincampoix is packed with great places, including the Demory bar. Demory is a beer brand founded in 1827 and revived in 2007 by Kai Lorch, German owner of the Progrès & Splendeur deli. So enjoy a glass of Demory beer before popping next door to buy home-made sausages and charcuterie. Or the other way about, of course.
60-62 rue Quincampoix, 4e Tél. 09 81 12 53 06


La Jaja
It took no time at all for this friendly bar run by Charléli and his sister Léonie to become THE hip place to be. So settle at the bar or out on the terrace to enjoy the excellent cocktails and nibbles or, on a Saturday night, to listen to one of their brilliant DJs.
56 rue d’Argout, 2e Tél. 09 52 12 41 01


Le Flaq
Take a trip to the heart of creativity: roughly 250m2 on three floors devoted to art, culture and traditional beer brands. On the ground floor there's French and Italian charcuterie and cheese to be savoured along with a glass of good wine or beer before heading down to the 1st-level basement to browse around the second-hand goods, or down another flight to the 13th-century chapel where they hold concerts, exhibitions and film shows.
36 rue Quincampoix, 4e Tél. 01 42 77 72 25


The Art Room
Very nice. Artists' videos projected on the walls, molecular cocktails, house infusions of gin and vodka, sophisticated decor and waiters is smart attire. At weekends there are DJs adding lively vibes right through to 5am.
13 rue Tiquetonne, 2e


Le Malibv
This pocket-sized underground club used to be an African hangout; now the music is cutting-edge electro. There's a pizzeria on the ground floor to stave off hunger pangs and in the basement clubbers dance till 6am in a cosy disco-ish atmosphere.
44 rue Tiquetonne, 2e Tél. 06 45 96 35 75


By Alix Lerebours