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02.2015

A designer leaving or joining a fashion house is part of a fascinating game of musical chairs. The big news is John Galliano's arrival at Maison Martin Margiela, the French label that previously staked its reputation on teamwork but has now succumbed to the trend for star designers and is showing its artisan line not in Paris, as before, but in London. Mulberry has appointed Johnny Coca, ex-Céline, as artistic director of all its collections, while at Ports 1961 Natasa Cagalj has taken over designing the women's ready-to-wear from Fiona Cibani. Still keeping us guessing is Carven, its designer hot seat left vacant by Guillaume Henry's move to Nina Ricci; rumour has it Alexis Martial will replace him. Gucci has promoted Alessandro Michele to Frida Giannini's job, and Schiaparelli has announced the end of its partnership with Marco Zanini but not its new captain of style. Suspense… JLR